Unit 2 Formulation of wave motion problem, assumption made in two

6 lecture hours

• dimensional cases
• small amplitude wave theory
• orbital motion and pressure
• wave energy
• finite amplitude wave theory
• Stocke’s wave theory (third order)
• mass transport
• Gerstner theory
• solitary wave theory
• generation of waves
• wave forecasting
• decay of waves

Unit 3 Reflection of waves, clapotis or standing waves, superposition of waves, refraction,

6 lecture hours

• refraction diagrams
• wave fronts and orthogonal methods
• diffraction of waves around semi infinite break waters
• detached break water of finite length
• diffraction through openings

Unit 4 Forces on vertical walls due to non breaking waves, breaking waves and broken

3 lecture hours

• waves base on linear theory
• forces on circular cylinders

Unit 5 Long term and short term changes of shores, factors influencing beach

• beach wave interaction
• beach profile modification
• littoral drift
• stability of shores
• shore erosion due to sea level
• on shore and off shore transport
• long shore transport
• interaction of shore structures
• shore erosion in Kerala
• mud banks

Unit 6 Coastal structures, description and effects of break waters, sea walls, groynes of

• various types
• beach nourishment
• design of sea walls
• break waters
• tetra pod, tri- 2 CIVIL (WATER RESOURCES ENGINEERING) (33) Subject Code: 3733304 w.e.f